So on Wednesday I ripped my suit clean open, unusable / unfixable.  I would get done for indecent exposure if I wore it, well either that or I might get more waves through distraction, maybe I should try…

So with no suit (its 4.3mm weather out here, some of the locals wear hoods / booties) surfing was off the cards for me. Or so I thought.  I called my sponsor (WaterSports World / Mystic) and explained the situ and they were fabulous!  They are sending me out a new suit so I can surf some more!  I love those guys! 

It goes on…  I called the people we are renting our place with for the postal address and relayed what had happened. They got one of their personal suits over to me within 15mins of our conversation.  (Its a mens 3.2mm, it was freezing but it did the job for a quick evening sesh!)  Thanks guys! 

THEN yesterday we headed to the best local surf shop around (58 Surf), and caught up with them about fixing one of our boards.  I was chatting to the girls in there and my wetsuit incident came up (again) and they’ve leant me a womens 4.3mm in my size until my new suit arrives, so I was able to have a really fun afternoon surf today 🙂

Honestly I’m so grateful to everyone that’s helped me out in the last couple of days with wetsuits, you’ve made my holiday!  Thank you guys!!  And HUGE thank you Watersports World!! xxxxxx

One trashed wetsuit, one morning latte, one tired baby that wouldn’t go down for a nap, one sandwich for lunch, two good surfs (each), and one priceless wave that made my week!  It might just be the best wave I’ve ever had in terms of turns / control, rode it all the way from the line up to the beach!  I didn’t get a photo of my epic ride as the battery died (thats just the way its going), but heres one from a less great wave. 

Overall though, a good day at the beach! 

I captured one of Jon’s waves…

I find myself watching water here.  A lot.  You do tend to just watch the ocean on a surf trip while you wait for waves.  Its a tad different with a baby as you can’t just sit for hours, but he’s pretty happy playing in the car (while parked obvs) or on the beach while we wait.  Water’s everywhere here, there are some pretty beautiful sights when you’re not on the beach…

          

My first surf of the day was terrible, there were a couple of local guys out making it look incredibly easy and a few others bobbing around.  I headed out only to get pulled straight through to the other side of the line up.  I got one barely there wave and headed in after only 30mins… See said wave below. 

However, my evening surf was brilliant.  I pondered whether to go out at all but 6pm came, I did one final check and didn’t question myself again.  Three people out, clean head high waves, perfect!  I upped my surf quota and surfed for a while after the sun had slid beyond the horizon.  It was a beautiful evening sesh.  🙂

Why do surfers watch water… check out this pretty interesting documentary Watching Water by Jo Tyrrell.