I find myself watching water here. A lot. You do tend to just watch the ocean on a surf trip while you wait for waves. Its a tad different with a baby as you can’t just sit for hours, but he’s pretty happy playing in the car (while parked obvs) or on the beach while we wait. Water’s everywhere here, there are some pretty beautiful sights when you’re not on the beach…
My first surf of the day was terrible, there were a couple of local guys out making it look incredibly easy and a few others bobbing around. I headed out only to get pulled straight through to the other side of the line up. I got one barely there wave and headed in after only 30mins… See said wave below.
However, my evening surf was brilliant. I pondered whether to go out at all but 6pm came, I did one final check and didn’t question myself again. Three people out, clean head high waves, perfect! I upped my surf quota and surfed for a while after the sun had slid beyond the horizon. It was a beautiful evening sesh. 🙂
Why do surfers watch water… check out this pretty interesting documentary Watching Water by Jo Tyrrell.