Supertubos was working and we were watching!  We made ourselves comfortable up on the dunes, had a picnic, had sunscreen on and sat back to enjoy the show.  There are some seriously good surfers here (some good wipeouts too).  It got to about 1:30ish and we’d had enough, we were ready to hit the water ourselves a little down the beach at Molhe Leste.  Jon went out first and got barrelled (typical), then I headed out.  I’m not Molhe Leste’s biggest fan as I suck at fast sucky hollow waves, they scare me!  I paddled around a bit, let a few go by as its been a while since I’ve surfed it.  I got a nice one where I did a bottom turn as the wave went over head then it closed out (I’m not fast enough to get around the section on this wave).  Then paddling out a local had a real nice set wave, some other lad went and dropped in on him and ran me over as I was duck diving, a board hit me on the head and I was over it!  Still pleased I got one decent wave though as that place is scaryyyy!

When you embark on a surf trip you tend to go back to basics and I’m sure any fellow surfers feel the same.  You pack up your board bag, pad your board with a towel, a wetsuit and some clothing items and be on your way.  You don’t need all the items you might need for say, a City break.  I’ve been here a week now and pretty much lived in the same pair of leggings and jumper / shirt for the entire time (which led me to do a load of washing last night – scariest washing machine ever, sounded like it was about to explode!).  I haven’t worn jewellery or make up since I got here and have barely looked in the mirror.  I let the sun, sand and salty ocean do what they do best.  I love this way of living, it strips you back to basics.  Some say the ocean has healing properties which I don’t know the details of, but what I do know is that I always feel better for getting wet.  So head to your nearest ocean (or watering hole) and get out there! 🙂 

I paddled out and found my own spot where I enjoyed three beautiful little waves.  I knew within 20mins the pack would turn up.  They did and they and hassled me out.  So after trying to get another wave for about 30mins I headed in.  At least I got some beauts early on!