One trashed wetsuit, one morning latte, one tired baby that wouldn’t go down for a nap, one sandwich for lunch, two good surfs (each), and one priceless wave that made my week!  It might just be the best wave I’ve ever had in terms of turns / control, rode it all the way from the line up to the beach!  I didn’t get a photo of my epic ride as the battery died (thats just the way its going), but heres one from a less great wave. 

Overall though, a good day at the beach! 

I captured one of Jon’s waves…

I find myself watching water here.  A lot.  You do tend to just watch the ocean on a surf trip while you wait for waves.  Its a tad different with a baby as you can’t just sit for hours, but he’s pretty happy playing in the car (while parked obvs) or on the beach while we wait.  Water’s everywhere here, there are some pretty beautiful sights when you’re not on the beach…

          

My first surf of the day was terrible, there were a couple of local guys out making it look incredibly easy and a few others bobbing around.  I headed out only to get pulled straight through to the other side of the line up.  I got one barely there wave and headed in after only 30mins… See said wave below. 

However, my evening surf was brilliant.  I pondered whether to go out at all but 6pm came, I did one final check and didn’t question myself again.  Three people out, clean head high waves, perfect!  I upped my surf quota and surfed for a while after the sun had slid beyond the horizon.  It was a beautiful evening sesh.  🙂

Why do surfers watch water… check out this pretty interesting documentary Watching Water by Jo Tyrrell. 

Small waves plus a baby equals doing other stuff, like not laying on the beach.  We ambled around the cobbled streets of Peniche instead of sunning ourselves.  We took a stroll to the lighthouse that backs Molhe Leste, had waffles and coffees, bought cold water surf wax (its not even that cold here) and generally just took in the sights.  We did however get a couple of fun surfs in.  My evening sesh was at the reef which I’ve not surfed for a while, a bit scary without my wingman but I got my three waves and did one; a hot bath and a pint were calling my name.  Bigger swell is imminent.