Boards

10155997_10153956938175344_1109528703_nThe past two weeks I’ve had the pleasure of riding these two lovely sticks.  Both 5’10’s but both very different.  I’ve ridden the Al Merrick ‘Pod’ for a while now and have become quite accustom to it.  The Billabong 5’10 is exactly the same as my other board at home which I couldn’t use to save my life when I last tried (the board was way too advanced for me).  However this trip I have spent most of my time on the latter and I actually prefer it?!  Its much quicker and easier to manoeuvre in the water. 

I’ve surprised myself this surf trip.  SONY DSCI’ve caught every wave I’ve paddled hard for (barring two yesterday due to noodle arms).  I usually paddle out, get nervous and stack on a few take offs.  The nerves are due to what people think, if you stack on your first wave, they write you off and you basically won’t get another wave very easily; especially being a girl, people just drop in on you.  I know its not fair but thats how it is, so your first wave really counts.  I’m not sure whats happened but I don’t feel the same after having Ethan.  I think its down to time, no time for all the bull.  With a limited amount of time to get waves I really have to focus and can’t get bogged down with nerves.  

SONY DSCI surprised myself again this trip (doing well aren’t I) when I could tell the difference between types of fins.  I’ve never been able to before (apart from on a wakeboard obvs). I’ve been using the standard fins that come with boards and also a set of FCS fins.  Well the standard fins make you feel like you’re riding along in slow motion, whereas the FCS fins are so much more responsive.  So I’m stoked to have reached a level in my surfing that I’d never thought I’d reach.  Yeah surfing! 🙂 

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